Tuesday, November 30, 2010

World AIDS Day 2010

I'd like to share a 3-minute video produced by one of my new medical classmates, Eric Lu*. Features an exclusive conversation with Dr. Paul Farmer.



[Eric and a few friends started the Jubilee Project when they decided to busk in a NY subway station to raise money for Haiti relief. This modest act inspired a video-making movement that raises funds and awareness for many causes. Worth checking it out.]

Tomorrow night, my classmates (old & new) will join others for a rally on the Boston Common---"sounding a clear call" and "affirming their commitment" as President Obama encouraged. I would be honored to work with them in coming years, as our generation delivers healthcare to everyone who needs it.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

The World is About to Turn?

Today begins the season of Advent in western Christianity. More than 2 billion people prepare to celebrate a new coming, and turning over the year. A priest reflected this morning that we should be mindful of our everyday actions in this changing world, one "of much suffering and brokenness, but that is surely pregnant with a new world." What kind of renewal?

My title above refers to an Irish folk hymn based on the subversive, revolutionary elements of the Biblical Magnificat, which Mary sang to Elizabeth as she waited to bear God's child. The refrain, "My heart shall sing of the day you bring. Let the fires of your justice burn. Wipe away all the tears, for the dawn draw near. And the world is about to turn."

Today Haiti voted for hope of a just turnover. Well, some of Haiti voted. Others boycotted, and still others were unable to reach the polls or turned away from them. By nearly all accounts, it was a disorganized and allegedly fraudulent "selection." Within 8-hours of the 6AM opening, 12 of 19 candidates held a joint press conference calling for annulment. This news is already all over your favorite media outlets, yet as usual, I respect Jonathan Katz's reporting for the AP. [He has lived in the country for 3 years..]

Issues include the following:
1. Deliberate yet unexplained exclusion of the popular Fanmi Lavalas party, among other flaws (including printing only half of the 400,000 requested national ID cards). In October, 44 members of U.S. Congress implored the State Dept to only support free & fair elections---and while late, there's still time to heed that advice. For Haiti politics aficionado's, this IJDH report is quite comprehensive.

2. Cholera. Reason enough to have postponed. Officials all admit estimates of the sick and dead are undershot; epidemic has yet to reach its peak; WHO is adjusting its projections upwards given that only 10% of the $164 million emergency appeal requested has been funded.

3. MINUSTAH---going on 5 years of what many Haitians view as militant occupation. The peacekeeping force has its own significant record of violence that includes open-firing into slums [embedded link is to one of my first blog posts in early 2007, for this particular human rights struggle was what first drew me into Haiti nearly 4 years ago. I suppose not much has changed.]

3.5 My friend Deepa works with a grassroots human rights group and wrote this excellent (concise!) update on how Haitians are responding to these issues...and how we can help their voices be heard.

4. Some irresponsible media coverage of all the above. More on this to follow via Twitter.

***One easy response: sign this petition listed on Change.org. It was started by a sharp new activist group in the Boston area called UnityAyiti, which has welcomed me into their ranks. Promise no strings attached or email deluge for signing.

As I continue working with UnityAyiti on watchdogging and advocacy, I'll post updates on Twitter (lest I overwhelm any subscribers to this blog). I will try to tweet solid Haiti news and analysis, as well as direct to good sources (i.e. Haitians and others doing the real work). So if the desire to read up on Haiti strikes, find my tweets on the right sidebar of this page http://oforthep.blogspot.com or at http://twitter.com/oforthep.

Note for the Twit-illit: you don't need an account to click on tweets or any links therein.

Today in Haiti, a new beginning did not emerge. Yet Haitians are still preparing for what they believe should rightly come to them, someday. They will keep toiling for the turning.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Gives Me Hope Today

One: what tho' the odds were great, the Irish pulled a victory over 14-ranked Utah. On TV, I watched the senior players end years of adversity with golden helmets raised in pride---including law student / O-lineman Chris Stewart, who unsurprisingly was a big hit carrying Haitian children on his shoulders when he visited Leogane last year. Celebrate on Rockne's field, senior class. Celebrate on out into the world.

Two: Aung San Suu Kyi was released. May she inspire the world to struggle for real freedom in Burma.

Three: Dr. Raj Panjabi delivered perhaps the most inspiring message I've heard in 2010. 6-minute video below (really, it's awesome, I watched it 3 times). He co-founded Tiyatien Health in rural, post-war Liberia. I'm honored to call him colleague, teammate.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Ignorance & Apathy

A football coach confronts his quarterback about an embarrassing string of losses. "You don't know the darn playbook, and you can't seem to rally the team when it comes down to that last drive in the 4th-quarter! What's the bigger problem, son, your ignorance or your apathy?"

The young leader ponders for a moment and then responds, solemnly, "I don't know, and I don't really care."

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Thank you, to a few kind readers who answered my not-so-rhetorical question. I decided not to go to Haiti. My original intention had been to simply visit with Haitian friends. Now is not the right moment for that. I also truly have nothing to offer... So from El Salvador, I came straight home: out of respect for the Haitians and foreigners working so fervently in the instant of crisis--an instant which today, November 12, has lasted for 10 months.

I am usually ignorant, and often apathetic. I sit in a comfortable house, consume too much, and pity my selfish concerns. Then memory triggers a craving for what's important, and I spend the last several hours learning and feeling.

--------
Synopsis of what we should know:
1. MSF Head of Mission, Stefano Zannini, reports in today's cholera post: "It’s a really worrying situation for us at the moment. All of the hospitals in Port-au-Prince are overflowing with patients and we’re seeing seven times the total amount of cases we had three days ago."
Rising count, at an increasing rate: 724 dead and 11,125 hospitalized. More unknown cases, surely.

2. Hurricane Tomas did cause significant flooding damage in Leogane. It's hard to quantify other than to say it was, bad. Some of you have seen photos from our common friends--shared & re-shared--across Facebook. Ansel Herz also provides an account.

3. Most of us have read about the "1.15 billion" pledged by the U.S. for reconstruction, money that seems to be playing hooky. (not to be confused with 1-billion spent in initial emergency aid). What's the story? Jonathan Katz from the AP concisely explains what any non-apathetic citizen ought to realize about our process of helping others.

Basically, Congress took its leisurely time preparing the appropriations bill which hit Obama's desk July 29. Authorization, the next step, happened Sept 20. And just now, the State Department learns it must ensure "accountability" from the Haitian government before the 1.3 million people living in tents could hope for an upgrade to a slab of concrete & some sturdy plywood. Katz also reports that reconstruction contractors with plans ready to go are losing interest.

Time is not only a matter of life and death. It's money, as well.

This predicament is only one step removed from all of us apathetic couch potatoes. It is our representative government, after all. Yesterday, we honored veterans in remembering the path to democracy. We could also remember that our civic duty did not end when polls closed last Tuesday.

4. If you're not discreetly edging away from my soapbox by now, this article is also thought-provoking "Humanitarian Crisis or Crisis of Humanitarianism?"

5. Let's be not ignorant of the good, as well: in searching the old OneResponse & Cluster sites, I just read a Partners in Health situation report that was more detailed than any analogous UN briefing I've read over the last 10 months. PIH has deep knowledge and deep response. Following their mission of "Doing Whatever It Takes," they have stayed with their Haitian community through the persistent crisis of injustice. They know and they care, so they can respond.

--------
I am probably like that poor quarterback. Yet, despite disappointment and seeming futility, he is at least honest. Wherever I am, even 1844 miles from where I wanted to be at this moment, I hope to acknowledge my ignorance & apathy. And then do something about it.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Rain pours through my eyes

A few minutes ago, I was writing about Nicaragua when thunder and heavy rain began. I stopped to watch it pelt and blow through the open cabana area of the hostel. Then my eyes became moist, then wet.

Have been closely reading Haiti cholera news, and situation reports from the health cluster emails to which I´m still (uselessly) subscribed. And now following Tomas.

http://www.weather.com/outlook/videos/tropical-storm-tomas-strengthens-6584#6584

Whatever the storm´s technical strength or path, think of heavy downpour when living under a tarp or a tent, one that´s falling apart from 10 months of heat and wind and rain. Text messages on your cellphone (you can receive, but don´t have money for outgoing calls) that warn of a nationwide deadly diarrheal epidemic, urging you to use only safe water sources. But you don´t have access to those in your under-serviced IDP camp or (worse, perhaps) the isolated area near the ruins of your home, where you´ve tried to rebuild life. Plus, being unemployed and pregnant or sick or caring for kids--whatever else is in the cup of your life. The cup that the rainwater floods over.

I´m scheduled to go to Haiti directly from El Salvador, in 6 days. Embassy restrictions on non-essential travelers may change this. But even if I have a choice, should I go??? (Very much not a rhetorical question, if you know me) I have nothing to offer. Not even tarps, or cups.

It´s still raining hard here.

Nica, pt. 2

*Fri 10/29: I finished my last post talking about Che Guevara. Inspired by reading him, as I took a boat from Isla de Ometepe to the hot but pleasant transit town of Rivas, I decided to dress as Che for Halloween. In the Rivas market, I found a motorcycle toy as a prop--and used a red bandana to tie back my currently-long & unkempt hair, drew a scraggly eyeliner-beard. The party? In Managua, where I arrived by early evening to stay with my friend Thomas, who has lived there for a year already through the Jesuit Volunteer Corp. Was soon attacked in a tight squeeze from my other friend Alicia, who promptly whisked me off to her barrio to zealously introduce me to a long string of her Nicaraguan friends. (if you know her, you can picture this)

Here are my friends´ blogs, sharing as nod to their good work, and deep insights about a place which to them is, home.
Thomas:http://thomasweiler.blogspot.com/
Alicia:http://spiderwebsyresistencia.blogspot.com/

Back to Halloween. Thomas & his JV compañeros threw a fantastic fiesta in the evening, with 20 or so Nica and expat friends who I loved meeting. Many recognized me, but more likely due to their radical political leanings than to my costume´s quality. Carousing continued into 2AM guitar sing-along of "Casas de Carton," and The Beatles.

*Sat 10/30: Tranquilo day, but did accompany Thomas to the market to help carry groceries...and witness his frijol & verdura-buying skills. We had time for many good conversations--the brief moment when our different paths become tangent. I´m learning more and more how important these meetings are, even when bending the curve takes a little extra effort.

Alicia joined us in the evening, to enjoy Thomas´ dinner of ayote and "gallo pinto" (Nica-speak for the always-yummy rice&beans). Then we headed with the full group of JVs to Cuidad Sandino, about an hour outside the capital. A few of their Nicaraguan friends recently opened a bar & club that´s women/family-friendly (i.e. not like the sad places of machistic drunkenness and desolation so prevalent elswhere). This night was a benefit concert / open-mic in support of an injured coworker at the local NGO where many attendees worked. Another great night of dancing and joy. Thomas kept telling me that most weekends are much more boring. But I was happy to ride the party wave!

*Sun 10/31-11/2: I´ve been in León for a few days. Called the "capital de la revolución," it was both the sight where Rigoberto López-Pérez assasinated dictator General Somoza in 1956 (then replaced by two dicator sons while Rigoberto was machine-gunned by the national guard) as well as a location of heavy fighting later up the final offensive and victory of the FSLN on July 19, 1979. The national University is also located here, contributing to the city´s importance in the resistance movement...and meaning there are lots of great murals here.

At the revolution museum, my personal tour-guide was a former guerillero. He rattled off 70years of historical detail, with colorful stories, for more than an hour. Only at the end did he tell me that he no longer formerly worked at the museo, but had come in to visit friends there, and still offered to teach me. Fighting in jungle when he was 20, he now farms export shrimp for a Spanish company.

I´ve enjoyed time to take in the city in a more relaxed way. Ironically, my months-long "don´t worry, be happy" M.O. ended in my hostel hammock, as I began reading a BRS Anatomy Review book I brought back from the U.S. several weeks ago. As I swing in a net of dismay from my completely-lost knowledge, my new classmates are learning, a lot...right now. My tranquilo time needs to end soon.

Yet, today´s excursion, likely my last hurrah of stereotypical tourism for awhile, was...VOLCANO-BOARDING. Yes, it´s what you´re imagining. It. Was. Great. A dozen happy backpackers (one quite hungover, glad I wasn´t in her shoes) jumped in the back of an orange truck for service directo across bumpy roads to the base of Cerro Negro. At 160yrs, it is the youngest volcano in Central America and also one of most active. The frequent eruptions, coupled with a characteristic east-to-west wind pattern, has created a rocky side, and a steep smooth ash side. We each carried jumpsuits, googles, and wooden boards in a hike up the rocky side. Ground at the summit was hot to the touch. We received instructions on using the boards (sled style, b/c standing would be wayyy too hard); the most important rule was "don´t smile or scream....or you´ll swallow ash."

Two-by-two, we pushed off. 700-meters at a 41-degree incline. Even though I fell off my board twice, the descent took less than a minute. Record speed in this activity is 80km/h, but my near-40 still felt pretty darn fast. Ash-covered faces and bodies, we rode back to the Bigfoot hostel and were offered free mojitos to celebrate.

I´ve loved Nicaragua, but my time in Central America is on a less-than-a-week countdown, so I need to return to El Salv to say goodbye there. Rather than take the directo TicaBus from Managua, I´m going to split up the 10-plus hour travel time by taking local buses through the three countries, and walking the borders. Estimated 7-10 buses passing from León to Chinandega to Guasuale to Choluteca to El Amatillo to Santa Rosa de Lima and finally, San Salvador. Will probably send a final note from there.